I want to believe that, at a pinch, I could achieve a little of what the author has achieved if life had taken me down a similar path. When I read something, I want to feel a little like the author. The problem is that it is hard to be enthusiastic about someone who is so thoroughly superior to you in every way. I also love the book and love William Finnegan. How does one review this book? I hate this book. The mature, professional journalist William Finnegan… a far cry from the “goalless, careless beach bum” he had been branded in Tonga. Ancient philosophers discuss what makes the beautiful game beautiful! Laozi and Socrates get technical.Socrates and Aristotle debate football defence.An American midnight surf – that goes very wrong!.The highs and lows of surfing Sunset Beach while competing at the Duke Kahanamoku Invitational.When being a proven waterman is not enough!.A bad day at Palmy – surfies and clubbies at war!.Who was Europe’s first surfing woman? Introducing the wonderful Witch of Newbury.Nothing ruins a good surf like a couple of blokes with automatic assault rifles….Easternmost memory – surfing in the wild at the end of the continent.Rabbit killer – a master takes a caning at pipeline!.The little surf that nearly ruined a promising career….Dix dumped – the trials of a self-confessed elite body surfer.The ocean is a trickster… especially Hawaii’s North Shore – Gas chambers bites the unwary!.
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